If you're ready to take your mechanical keyboard setup to the next level, there's one customization that'll give you the most bang for your buck: lubing the switches. It's a simple mod that will make your typing feel incredibly smooth and sound a whole lot better. While it used to be a super niche thing only for the most dedicated enthusiasts, it's become an essential upgrade for anyone serious about their board. This guide will get you started with everything you need to know, from the tools to the step-by-step application, so you can enjoy a quieter, smoother, and more satisfying typing session.

If you’ve spent any time with a mechanical keyboard, you may have noticed a slightly scratchy feel, a distracting "pinging" sound from the springs, or any other sorts of general noise when typing. This can be alleviated by applying specialized lubricant to the internal components of a switch to reduce friction between the moving parts, effectively silencing the scratch and creating a smooth, deep, and satisfying typing experience. It is arguably one of the most impactful modifications you can make.

What are Pre-Lubed Switches & Why Do Enthusiasts Like Them?

A pre-lubed switch is a mechanical switch that has lubricant previously applied to its internal components directly during the manufacturing process.

What are some of the main reasons these switches are so appealing to enthusiasts?

Out-of-the-Box Performance: They offer a significantly improved typing experience immediately after installation, eliminating the need for the tedious manual lubing process

Reduced Friction and Noise: The factory application ensures the stem, spring, and housing rails glide smoothly, reducing the friction felt and unpleasant sounds common in unlubricated switches.

Convenience: For keyboard users who want the benefits of lubing without spending hours disassembling, painting, and reassembling hundreds of tiny parts, pre-lubed switches are the perfect solution.

Switch Anatomy

● Top Housing: This secures the keycap and contains the top guide for the stem.

● Stem: The internal piece that travels up and down when pressed. This is the most crucial part to lube.

● Spring: Provides the resistance and returns the stem to its resting position.

● Contact Leaf (or Crosspoint): The two gold metal pieces responsible for registering the keypress when the stem makes contact.

● Bottom Housing: Holds the spring, leaf, and provides the base structure. It contains guide rails for the stem.

What to Lube on a Mechanical Keyboard Switch (and What to Avoid)

A light, even coat of lubricant on the moving contact points reduces friction and noise for smoother, quieter typing. Focus on the parts below and avoid flooding—too much lube can slow return or cause misfires.

• Switch Stem (highest impact)
  Lube the four outer walls and the center pole that sits on the spring.
  Tactile switches (e.g., Brown): skip the tactile legs to preserve the bump feel.
  Recommended: thin coat of Krytox 205g0 or Tribosys 3203.

• Bottom Housing Rails (guide rails)
  Apply a very thin layer to the two vertical rails where the stem slides.
  Do not touch the metal contact leaf—keep it dry and clean.

• Spring (kill “spring ping”)
  Dab a tiny amount on the top and bottom coils, or use the bag-lubing method with a light oil (e.g., Krytox 105). This cuts metallic ringing without gumming up the switch.

• Stabilizers (highly recommended for big keys)
  Under the Spacebar, Enter, Shift, Backspace: lube the wire and housing contact points to eliminate rattle. Use grease sparingly and wipe excess.

Avoid lubing: click bars on clicky switches, the gold contact leaf, and any PCB/socket surfaces.

How to Lube a Switch? (Step-by-Step Switch Lubing)

Lubing is a lengthy process with many steps.  Block out a large chunk of time for this and get all supplies needed at the start..  For best results, use a quality lube like Krytox GPL 205g0 for linear/tactile switches, and a thin brush (like a fine artist’s brush). So let’s gather up the stuff we will need to get this done!  By no means is this a complete list, but more of a guide.

Tools Needed:

● Switch opener

● Switch puller (if switches are hot-swappable)

● Keycap puller

● Specialized switch lubricant (e.g., Krytox GPL 205g0 or Tribosys 3203)

● Fine paintbrush (size 0 or 00)

● Lube station or organizing trays - you don’t want the parts spreading over your workbench

● Q-tips or paper towels for clean up

Step-by-Step Guide:

1) Remove Components (Hot-Swap Boards)

Power down the keyboard. Use a keycap puller to lift off all keycaps, then a switch puller to gently remove the switches from the hot-swap PCB. Keep parts grouped by row/zone for faster reassembly.

2) Disassemble the Switch

With a switch opener, separate Top Housing, Stem, Spring, and Bottom Housing. Place each part in a tray—good organization prevents mixing stems/housings and speeds up the switch lubing workflow.

3) Lube the Spring (Reduce “Spring Ping”)

Apply a tiny amount of lube to the top and bottom coils. Or use the bag-lube method: put all springs in a small bag with a few drops of thin oil (e.g., Krytox 105), seal, and gently shake for an even coat.

4) Lube the Bottom Housing (Guide Rails)

Dip your brush and wipe off excess—with switch lube, less is more. Brush a very thin, even coat on the two vertical guide rails inside the bottom housing and lightly on surfaces that contact the stem. Avoid the gold contact leaf (keep it dry and clean) to prevent actuation issues.

5) Lube the Stem (Highest Impact)

Brush a thin coat on the four outer walls of the stem—these rub the housing and control smoothness. Add a light coat to the cylindrical pole on the bottom of the stem (where it meets the spring).
Tactile switches: skip the tactile legs to preserve the tactile bump.
Recommended greases for switch lubing: Krytox 205g0 or Tribosys 3203.

6) Lube the Stabilizers (Big Keys)

For Spacebar, Enter, Shift, Backspace, lube the wire and housing contact points to kill rattle and improve feel. Use a small amount of Krytox 205g0 (wipe excess).
(If you embed a video, use keyword-rich anchor text like “How to Lube Keyboard Stabilizers with Krytox 205g0”.)

7) Reassemble the Switch

Place the lubricated spring onto the bottom-housing center post. Drop the stem onto the spring with legs facing the contact leaf, then snap the top housing back until it clicks firmly.

8) Reinstall & Test

Press the switch a few times to distribute lube, then reinstall all switches into the board. Refit keycaps and sound-test for a smoother, quieter profile. Replace or touch up any switch that feels sluggish (usually too much lube).

Alternative Techniques

“Dipping” Method (Brushless Switch Lubing):  A fast, brush-free way to lube keyboard switches—lightly dip the stem pole or spring tip into lubricant (e.g., Krytox 205g0 for stems, 105 for springs) for quick, even coverage. Use sparingly and blot excess to avoid over-lubing, which can cause a sluggish or sticky key feel and reduced switch return.

Results: Before vs. After

The difference between a stock, scratchy switch and a properly lubed switch is night and day. Before lubing, the keystroke is often characterized by a gritty feel, a high-pitched scratch, and a metallic ping, or a feeling of being stuck. Afterward, the keystroke is buttery smooth, the sound is deep and muted, and the overall typing experience feels premium, giving the keyboard a satisfying, custom feel.

This video shows the basic process of lubing a switch, but highlights the difference between a non-lubed switch and a properly lubricated switch.

When Not to Lube Your Switches

Lubrication is not always needed.  Sometimes it can actually be counterproductive to do so. You decide if it is truly necessary to lube the switches.

● Clicky Switches: Lubing a clicky switch (like a Cherry Blue) can often dampen or completely eliminate the satisfying click sound, fundamentally changing the switch’s signature function.

● If You're Satisfied: If your current switches are already factory-lubed well or you are perfectly happy with the sound and feel, there is no need to spend the time on this modification.

● Lack of Patience/Time: Lubing a full keyboard (usually 87 to 104 switches) can take several hours. If you don't have the time or patience for the repetitive, precise work, consider buying a keyboard with quality pre-lubed switches instead.

Common Mistakes & Fixes (Mechanical Keyboard Switch Lubrication)

Avoid these frequent errors when doing mechanical keyboard switch lubrication. Each item includes symptoms, fixes, and prevention tips.

1. Over-Lubing
   Symptoms: Keys feel mushy, sluggish, heavy, or sometimes fail to register.
   Fix: Remove excess lube with a cotton swab or microfiber cloth; spot-clean with isopropyl alcohol if needed. Reapply a very thin coat only on friction points (stem rails, stem sides, spring).
   Prevent: Thin, even coats instead of one thick pass. Test on 2–3 switches before doing the whole board.

2. Lubing the Contact Leaf (Leaf/Gold Contacts)
   Symptoms: Normal travel but inconsistent or missing actuations.
   Fix: Clean the contact leaf/gold pads with a clean, dry brush or a small amount of contact cleaner. Let everything dry completely before reassembly.
   Prevent: Never lube the contact leaf or metal pads. Keep lubricant on rails and stem only; leave the contact area dry.

3. Using the Wrong Lube
   Symptoms: Too thick = sticky feel and slow return. Too thin = smooth at first but wears off quickly and noise returns.
   Fix: Reopen the switch, fully remove the incorrect lubricant (isopropyl alcohol or ultrasonic if available), then apply the correct type.
   Prevent (recommended pairings): Stems/rails – Krytox 205g0. Springs – Krytox 105 (ideal for spring ping via bag lubing).

Looking for a Mechanical Keyboard with Pre-Lubed Switches?

Want the smooth, quiet feel of lubed switches without spending hours with a brush? Look for a board that pairs quality factory-lubed linear switches with hot-swappable sockets. Redragon has several pre-lubed, mod-friendly mechanical keyboards that are ideal for customization and upgrades—so you can dial in your sound and feel from day one.

Great places to start:

Redragon K719 Wireless Gasket Gaming Keyboard (95 Keys, Hype Screen & Knob) — Gasket-mounted build, 5-layer sound dampening, hot-swappable (3/5-pin) sockets, and a 1.14" TFT info display for quick mode/connection feedback. Ships with thick-lubed custom linear switches (e.g., Mint Mambo) for a silky, creamy, quiet feel right out of the box. The “Jade Cloud” colorway adds a clean, modern aesthetic.

Redragon K686 PRO SE (98 Keys, Wireless 3-Mode, Gasket, RGB)

Gasket-mounted build with 5-layer noise dampening and a dedicated control knob. Hot-swappable 3/5-pin sockets plus pre-lubed custom Hi-Fi linear switches deliver a faster, creamy, elastic thock right out of the box. The compact 96/98 layout keeps the numpad for productivity while staying desk-friendly—great for quiet builds and future mods.

Redragon K745 PRO (108 Keys, Wireless, Gasket, RGB)

Full-size build with extra 4 hotkeys, 5-layer noise dampening, and south-facing hot-swap sockets for easy switch swaps and better LED diffusion. Comes with round PBT keycaps and pre-lubed Custom Mint Mambo linear switches for cushioned, silky-creamy travel and cozy “thock.” The upgraded 3/5-pin compatible sockets maximize mod flexibility; wireless + USB-C keeps your setup clean and versatile.

Redragon OTIIM K729 PRO (Gasket, Silent Custom Switches) 

Debuts Redragon’s first Silent Peach custom switch in a keyboard, pairing a gasket-mounted structure with cushioned, creamy, ultra-quiet keystrokes—perfect for office or late-night gaming. An enhanced LED lens boosts south-facing RGB brightness and uniformity for a cleaner, more vibrant glow.

Next step: Read Redragon’s Mechanical Keyboard Customization guide—quick, hands-on tips for switch swaps, lubing, stabilizer tuning, and sound dampening to level up your typing feel.

Conclusion

Lubricating mechanical keyboard switches is a method to give you the definitive path to achieving a truly personalized, premium typing experience. By reducing friction and perfecting the sound profile, a lubed switch can make even an entry-level keyboard feel like a top-tier custom build. The payoff of having a professional quality feel comes at a price of time and effort to make it happen. Whether you choose to take the plunge into manual lubing or opt for the convenience of pre-lubed switches, the result is the same: a smoother, quieter, and more satisfying keystroke.

FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

Some of these questions are addressed above, but who has time?  You have keys to lubricate!  

1. What does lubed mean in keyboard?

a. "Lubed" means that a specialized, non-conductive lubricant (usually a grease like Krytox or Tribosys) has been applied to the internal friction points of the switch (the stem and housing) to reduce noise and enhance key travel smoothness.

2. How often do I have to lube my keyboard?

a. Generally, high-quality lube like Krytox is a semi-permanent application and lasts for the life of the switch. You typically only need to lube them once. However, if you use a very thin oil, or if you disassemble the switches for cleaning, you may need to reapply lube every few years.

3. Is lubing a keyboard worth it?

a. For enthusiasts seeking the best typing feel and sound, yes, it is absolutely worth the effort. It eliminates scratchiness and metallic sounds, providing a profound improvement over stock switches.

4. How long do keyboards last?

a. Mechanical keyboards are very durable. The switches themselves are often rated for 50 million to 100 million keystrokes, meaning the keyboard can last for decades with proper care.

5. Does the keyboard lube wear off?

a. High-quality, thick synthetic grease (like Krytox 205g0) used on switches does not typically wear off or dry out in a meaningful way over years of use. It settles into the friction points. Thinner oils used on springs might require reapplication after extended periods.

6. Do keyboards need to be lubricated?

a. No, mechanical keyboards do not need to be lubricated to function, but lubing significantly improves the sound profile and the tactile/linear feel, making the typing experience much more enjoyable.

7. How to tell if a keyboard needs lube?

a. You can tell if a switch needs lube if it feels "scratchy" or "gritty" when pressing it slowly, or if the spring inside produces a high-pitched metallic "ping" sound when bottoming out or releasing the key.

8. Does lubing switches make it quieter?

a. Yes. Lubing dampens the sound created by the stem rubbing against the plastic housing and eliminates the metallic spring noise, resulting in a deeper, more muted, and quieter sound profile.

9. What happens if you over lube switches?

a. Over-lubing causes the switch to feel "sluggish" or "mushy" and slows the return of the key. In severe cases (especially if the contacts are lubed), the switch may fail to register a keypress.

10. Are factory lubed switches good?

a. The quality of factory-lubed switches varies by manufacturer and brand. High-end switches often have excellent factory lube, but cheaper switches may have inconsistent or poorly applied lube. They are generally superior to unlubed stock switches but may not be as good as a meticulous, hand-lube job.

11. Do I need to lube keyboard stabilizers?

a. Yes, absolutely. Stabilizers (under the large keys like Spacebar, Enter, and Shift) are known for rattling. Lubing them is essential to eliminate the rattle and ensure these keys feel and sound consistent with the rest of the keyboard.